June 27th
Greenville:  Visiting a Jewish Synagogue


Gentle Reader,


Continuing our exploration of the rich immigration history of the Delta, we journeyed to Greenville to spend some time at a Jewish synagogue.  

 Painting in the Synagogue Museum of a man carrying The Torah

 Beautiful stained glass windows, each of which contains symbolism related to Judaism

This synagogue was established in the 1870's, largely with Jewish immigrants from Germany and Russia.  Many of the people came here to escape pogroms.  As our speaker noted, they "came here to taste freedom, and they did."  Many ended up in the Delta because they came down the Mississippi river looking for a way to make a living.  Some arrived in New York and simply wanted to escape the crowded city and find some place less congested in which to raise their families.  


By the 1930's, this synagogue had a membership of about 200 families, which is the largest congregation in the Delta.  For 30,000, the families had build a beautiful worship space, which included a pipe organ.  


To earn a living, many of the families set up stores in the area.  The business owners participated fully in the community, as mayors, council members, etc..  Many businesses were in existence for over 100 years.  The Jewish population is currently dwindling, as the area is very economically depressed; therefore, the children of the merchants aren't necessarily taking over the businesses.  Instead, they are leaving town and entering a variety of other professions.  


The museum at the synagogue houses a Torah Scroll that was rescued/protected during the Holocaust.  One of the things I learned during this talk was that Hitler apparently had a plan to develop a museum to honor his extinction of the Jews after the war.  When his thugs had desecrated many of the synagogues across Europe, many artifacts were housed in basements, with the idea they would eventually be used in the museum.  The artifacts were eventually returned to many Jewish communities, and the one in this particular synagogue is from Czechoslovakia.  

 View of the Synagogue from the front of the building

 A menorah in the stained glass

 A dove of peace in the stained glass

 An additional work of art, depicting a Bar Mitzvah

 An Eternal Remembrance list of congregation who have passed on...

 A close-up view of the Holocaust Torah from Czechoslovakia...

I'll be adding some personal writings to this blog entry, too.  There has been almost no "down time" in this workshop, starting at 7:30 most days and ending between 9-10 pm.  Only breaks are for eating... and we've discovered some marvelous eateries in the area with delicious down-home southern cooking.


The speaker at the synagogue talked a great deal about the members of the congregation being very much Southerners and Jews, a dual identity.  Their gift shop features several products inscribed with "Shalom, Y'all."  I now have a travel coffee mug inscribed with this slogan from this synagogue...


Namaste,
Marianne

June 27, 2012
Immigration Focus Day At NEH Seminar

"The Soul is resting in heaven.

Oh soul, live forever..."

-Chinese poem, excerpt

Yesterday, we explored the many immigrant populations that have played a major role in the life of the Delta.  We began with a trip to the segregated Chinese cemetery.  Many of the Chinese who came to the Delta set up grocery stores.  Our guest speaker talked about being put to work in her father's store when she was four or five years old.  Her task was to watch for people who might be stealing.  Later, as she got older, she took on the job of stocking shelves.  

At the funerals, little envelopes containing a coin and a piece of candy were passed out to the mourners:  the candy was to take the bitterness out of your mouth; the coin was to buy some more candy to take out more bitterness.  

Walking around this cemetery was a very moving experience... I'm working on another piece, which I will add to the blog later, related to this journey...

In the meantime, here are some other images from the Chinese cemetery...

 Entrance to the Chinese Cemetery...

 Our guest speaker, whose name I need to get from Luther or Lee

 Many Christian symbols on many of the markers.  Some includes verses from scripture...

 Perhaps some offerings left for the ancestors, according to ancient Chinese custom...

We also visited the Black cemetery, which was right across the road from the Chinese cemetery.  Some of the graves were set off in fences, appearing to be graves connected through family relationships.  Many graves had American flags posted at the stones.  A slave who fought alongside his master on the Confederate side during the Civil War is buried here, too:  Holt Collier.

June 25, 2012
Backtracking a bit...


Gentle Reader,


Already playing catch-up with photos.  These are from the reception at Martin and Sue King Railroad Museum in Cleveland , Mississippi...


Also, you'll find some photos from our most memorable BBQ lunch at Corky's in Memphis, Tennessee.  We tried both wet and dry rub BBQ, and thoroughly enjoyed the 1/2 loaf of fried onion rings with remuloude sauce. Shared ribs, smoked chicken, and pulled pork. Definitely a southern feast!!!

 Dr. Luther, our fearless leader...

A recently found scene from the film Tom Jones..., featuring Dr. Vander Ploeg!!!!

May you, too devour something memorable today!!!


Namaste,
Marianne

June 25, 2012

Catfish Supper at the Blue Levee

Gentle Reader,

Tonight we dined at the Blue Levee Restaurant.  They are usually closed on Monday night, but Luther made special arrangements for them to be open just for us.  What a treat!  The catfish was wonderfully tasty, as was the banana pudding.  We had hush puppies, fries, and cole slaw, too.  Cole slaw seems to be a staple here in the Delta.

We learned that there is great competition for the catfish market, with the predominant competition coming from VietNam.  We also learned that the new Swai fish on the market, which we have found at the Kroger, is in competition with catfish.   Nothing quite like a good old-fashioned fried catfish dinner with catfish farmed in the Mississippi Delta.   Good eatin', my friends!

My catfish dinner...

 Table here at teh Blue Levee are decorated with labels from old beer bottles... Didn't see any Effess from Turkey here, Trixie!!!

 Fascinating, colorful artwork at teh Blue Levee Restaurant

 And for my students who read Fried Green Tomatoes this year... yes, the Piggly Wiggly is alive and well in the southern part of the United States...  Twanda!!!!

This is a "Bottle Tree," which originates in the Gullah Islands of South Carolina.  Folks construct these using a metal pipe as a base, and then attach bottles to the pipe.  Blue bottles are especially desirable, as they are believed to ward off evil spirits.  People in the Gullah Islands also paint their window frames blue, to keep the evil spirits away.  This Bottle Tree was in the space right outside of the entrance door at the Blue Levee Restaurant...

Scott and I ended our day with another couple at a local Mexican Restaurant.  Erin and Brad also met at a workshop and have combined their Boston and Montana lives in Montana, a place that truly offers big skies.  We talked about Istanbul, as they were considering going there for their honeymoon in August.  We wish this delightful young couple a bond that will last a lifetime...

May you plant your equivalent of a Bottle Tree, keeping you safe and protected...

namaste,

Marianne